http://www.chrono24.com/vacheronconstantin/triple-moonphase-calendar-47052-18k-white-gold--id6515819.htm

http://www.authenticwatches.com/cartier-calibre-de-cartier-w7100051.html#.WaIQzyiGOUk

https://www.exquisitetimepieces.com/bell-ross-ww1-92-military-watch-brww192-mil-sca.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vacheron-Constantin-Triple-Date-18K-Gold-36mm-Ref-47051-Rare-Gents-Watch/142452634127?_trkparms=aid%3D888007%26algo%3DDISC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41376%26meid%3Db8ec66db6c634b79a962b073a399ef2a%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D401371346287&_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hanhart-WWII-Luftwaffe-Chronograph-/263166985269?hash=item3d45f98435:g:E0AAAOSwqJRZoDvH

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3712601&forum_id=2#34074385)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_cstYM0s_mE

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3712601&forum_id=2#34074427)

I like the look of some of the Bell & Ross and Sinn Aviators.

Casio sells a watch that looks almost identical to that Bell and Ross you posted.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3712601&forum_id=2#34074449)

welcome to the dos comma per year club

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3712601&forum_id=2#34076707)

I'll try again when I have a chance.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3712601&forum_id=2#34077253)

**Best Re-Hashing of the Original I Could Muster Below:**

Having been down this road myself and now having a reasonably extensive collection, a good chunk of my thoughts, feedbacks and lessons learned would depend upon how you're using the term "collection." If you're using it the same way you might describe your shoe, suit or tie, collection, I'd approach it a bit differently than if you mean a more passiionate collection that is the end result of a hobby and something you’re a bit more invested in. The good news is the advice starts the same since the biggest mistake I see (I was guilty of it myself) when someone starts out building a true collection is that they dive in too eagerly and unnecessarily paint themselves into an expensive corner. So whether looking for an serious, personal collection or a base of respectable pieces to serve as high end accessories I'd suggest a) beginning with three core pieces that essentially make a starter set and b) starting out by buying used. Regarding the latter, buying used when starting out will prevent you from taking too much of a hit when you finally do settle on what it is you want. By way of example I was able to sell many of my early “missteps” for around what I paid for them (some more). WatchUWant and Chrono24 are both great resources for pre-owned watches with sellers you can trust.

With regards to the advice to start with three core pieces, I’d suggest a dress watch and then two versatile pieces that 1) can work from the office down to a cookout and 2) don’t overlap too much or otherwise feel redundant (one that looks good with a steel bracelet and another that is better suited to a leather type can help with that spread out of the gate). A good, affordable “starter set” example along these lines just top of head might be a Nomos Tangente to satisfy the dress and then a Rolex sub with an IWC Mark XVIII to address the two versatile pieces that don’t necessarily compete for the exact same wrist time given the difference between the two. That set could be had for $10K with some homework. If you wanted to come out swinging big time and it was important to have high end pieces from the get go I’d swap them out (in order) for a Patek Calatrava (could also do the Vacheron 1815 given you linked 2 of theirs and may be drawn to them), AP’s Royal Oak and maybe IWC’s Big Pilot or even a Panerai submerisble if that design appeals to you. Please recognize that these examples are intended to be descriptive suggestions as opposed to prescriptive recommendations – comparing them side by side will give you an idea as to what I’m trying to convey with a versatile set that will allow you to literally and figuratively try on some preferences and get an idea for next steps as you fine tune the collection. About the only fundamental I’m really neglecting here with the starters is a watch with a generous amount of complications or subs. If it’s important to you to have that you may want to throw in a 4th as a classic chronograph or day/date calendar. Breitling, Omega and even Tag (I can almost sense the disapproving head nods from watch snobs) have some solid entry level chronos, and as with the above if you were really looking to start out strong a Daytona would satisfy that category on the high end.

And that represents the fork in the road I touched on above. If all you want is a handful or less of impressive time pieces that will compliment your look in virtually any situation, you don’t need to go much further than what I’ve laid out. You can start to get into gold versus white gold/platinum iterations for the dress, brown versus black band, etc. but for the most part you have your “collection.”

If, on the other hand, you’re using that as a springboard to really define a collection unique and meaningful to you, this is still the springboard, but you’d want to supplement these buys with a healthy dose of reading as well as window shopping. ABlogToWatch is a great resource and their archives are nicely organized if you search by term or theme. Likewise, Hodinkee’s site is solid and some of their Talking Watches episodes are good if only for the exposure. For window shopping, I’d strongly suggest browsing online whenever you have down time on the train, midflight, between calls, whatever. It’s the quickest, most efficient way to immerse yourself in the volume of what’s available and what might appeal to you. I mentioned them above, but I firmly believe Chrono24’s website and app allow for the best searching and filtering to get the best sense of what’s out there.

As you continue to read and browse you’ll steadily start to figure out what kind of theme or underpinnings your collection will have. Just to give you an idea of the many directions it could go I have friends and colleagues who collect only one brand, others who skew towards a type (diver, pilot, racing), some who are pure vintage (and others who like to pair watches with a new version and its grandfather), a handful who like to have a flagship from each major maker...the list goes on and on. For my part I have two “collections” in addition to my more daily/regular wears. One is a complete and permanent collection of four watches – one for each of my four kids that has meaning and they’ll each inherit one day. The other is what became my theme: both annual and perpetual calendars. I didn’t set out to do either but that’s where I ended up through the process above.

Finally, I’d close this kind of lengthy reply with a couple quick points:

• I’d get to know the various high end brands and see what appeals to you. You’ll encounter some who mock anything outside of Swiss (and some who feel the same about anything not in the trinity), others who are all about Rolex and an equal number who think it’s a watch for the masses and cocaine cowboys. None of that really matters as it’s hard to go wrong with the core companies. Some will retain value better than others but for the most part once you’re into a certain market segment it’s all about preferences...and those can vary wildly within brand. For example I adore the Calatrava (especially the 5116G) but can’t really get into any of Patek’s other pieces.

• Speaking of brands, I don’t want to turn this into a brand endorsement thread, but on the high end I think Lange & Sohne is as good as it gets but their reset in the 90s (or whenever they rebooted) has them absent in that swing of watches immediately after the quartz crisis that tended to solidify the luxury brands as they responded to that. So for that reason they can be overlooked – especially by those just trying to get their bearings. I also think that for the money JLC’s ultra thins, and especially their 8 day perpetual, are obscene bargains. Quality on par with Lange, Patek, AP, Vacheron, etc. but much more reasonably priced.

Feel free to ask any questions...always enjoy talking this stuff.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3712601&forum_id=2#34077892)

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3712601&forum_id=2#34077906)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-kcy3Zowamw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zXRFHZxHAA

All those small, blue'd screws, also manufactured and heat treated in-house, that's the lengths some brands go to be a true movement maker.

There is far more justification for a luxury watche's value than most any other piece of jewelry that, when you break it down, is generally just worth the spot price of metal.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3712601&forum_id=2#34082431)

He buys a lot of vintage Omegas and restores them himself; I think the only thing he outsources is refinishing the dials but all the mechanical stuff is 100% him. He regulated one of my watches to +2 per day.

I personally don't like to own a lot, I only have two mechanicals. A Seiko SRP777 because fuck XO talking about prole watches, this thing on a 22mm leather strap is total throw back to Martin Sheen in Apocalypse Now and feels bad-ass to wear. My nice watch is a Nomos Orion Weiss in 38mm w/ their hand-winding alpha movement visible; my wife has a 33mm Orion w/ the blue and gold hands/markers.

If I was going to spend on higher end stuff, I'd focus on more dress oriented or casual watches because I think it's ridiculous to pay a ton for a 'tool' watch; though I do find things like Sinns and Damaskos nice. In particular I'd look for ones that have in-house movements, maybe novel mechanical features to them, a lot of handwork and detail, etc. I think it's stupid that people drop a ton on watches with high grade, but still conventional ETA under the hood.

Brands I don't like: Tudor (until just recently they were using ETA and always seemed 2nd class to Rolex) and Breitling (too much going on with their dials).

Brands I'm warming to: Newer Omegas, though they're definitely on a march to raise their prices to Rolex levels, I think the case finishing and movements are better than Rolex. IWC, they have a lot of classy every day casual-dress watches without going too overboard in price. German brands in general, especially those that don't advertise a ton, give you a ton of value for the $.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3712601&forum_id=2#34079187)

At that price point, if you want an interesting diver, I'd personally go for a micro-brand with a 9015 movement. If you buy a Halios AS SOON AS HE RELEASES THEM you can basically wear it as long as you want and sell it for next to nothing in terms of depreciation. Otherwise, look for used Helson's and Armida's; both "parts catalog" divers but for what they cost in mint/used condition, total steals.

http://www.lionseek.com/watches

The new/updated Seamasters are nice. If you make $130k in a 2nd tier / low COL city I say got for it. But like in SF/NYC, $130k is nothing and I think it's a bit much.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3712601&forum_id=2#34079902)

https://www.omegawatches.com/watches/seamaster/seamaster-300/seamaster-300/product/

Buy it used in great condition w/ remaining warranty for easily under $3400...

http://forums.watchuseek.com/f29/fsot-omega-smp-300-master-coaxial-box-papers-4519127.html

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3712601&forum_id=2#34079917)