I have made a decision on Honda vs Subaru (pics)
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02/18/18 | | razzle parlor | 02/18/18 | | mauve hunting ground | 02/18/18 | | razzle parlor | 02/18/18 | | pea-brained pit | 02/18/18 | | razzle parlor | 02/18/18 | | mauve hunting ground | 02/18/18 | | pea-brained pit | 02/18/18 | | razzle parlor | 02/18/18 | | mauve hunting ground | 02/18/18 | | pea-brained pit | 02/18/18 | | mauve hunting ground | 02/18/18 | | razzle parlor | 02/18/18 | | pea-brained pit | 02/18/18 | | mauve hunting ground | 02/18/18 | | pea-brained pit | 02/19/18 | | mauve hunting ground | 02/19/18 | | pea-brained pit | 02/19/18 | | mauve hunting ground | 02/19/18 | | pea-brained pit | 02/19/18 | | appetizing center | 02/19/18 | | razzle parlor | 02/19/18 | | Submissive cuckoldry turdskin | 02/18/18 | | Excitant Parlour Round Eye | 02/19/18 | | Submissive cuckoldry turdskin | 02/19/18 | | razzle parlor | 02/19/18 | | mauve hunting ground | 02/18/18 | | Concupiscible gunner | 02/19/18 | | mauve hunting ground | 02/19/18 | | razzle parlor | 02/19/18 | | mauve hunting 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Poast new message in this thread
Date: February 18th, 2018 3:00 PM Author: mauve hunting ground
Sorry bloodacre, but my wife and I agree...the HONDA CR-V is our choice!
https://i.imgur.com/oZWdRui.jpg
We drove a 2018 CR-V LX 4WD and put a carseat in the back (passenger side) to simulate real world conditions. It was very easy to use the L.A.T.C.H. system to attach the carseat firmly. There was plenty of room in the back for a carseat, and we could easily see there was enough room in the back for two carseats if we were blessed with a second child one day.
Compared to our current Toyota Camry, we had an absurd amount of room. The cabin was SO spacious! Even with the carseat behind me, I had plenty of leg room in the front passenger side.
This was the console:
https://i.imgur.com/EDwdFgA.jpg
Note this little "Econ" button. If you press it, the fuel efficiency improves by 2 MPG. We pressed it.
https://i.imgur.com/KLFEOXD.jpg
Here is the spacious rear, with one of the seats down. We think we could fit a queen sized mattress back there
https://i.imgur.com/zUNIQK4.jpg
Finally, they popped the hood to see the 4-cylinder EARTHDREAMS engine
https://i.imgur.com/Ebv0GxO.jpg
We also test drove a Subaru Outback 2.5i...and it was a bit of a disappointment. The key points are:
(1) Much more interior cabin room in the Honda
(2) Didn't look like we could comfortably fit TWO full sized car seats in the back of the Outback without significantly sacrificing leg room in the front seats
(3) Wife and I both agreed that the Subaru was more "fun" to drive, but it simply did not meet our use case
(4) Honda dealership seemed much friendlier and more competent than the Subaru dealership
We still need to try the Mazda CX-5...but it will be tough to beat the CR-V.
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3896808&forum_id=2#35431682) |
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Date: February 18th, 2018 3:20 PM Author: Comical rebellious nowag blood rage
just get autoloan quotes from your bank (citi or chase or BoA). credit unions offer the best rates usually so not a bad idea to sign up for a reputable one in your area
the most important thing you should do is to negotiate everything over email. dont even step into the car dealership unless you have agreed on everything and only to sign the paperwork. they will try to fuck you over on financing and if not that on dealer installed accessories
get financing and email the dealers. agree on a price and ask them to send you the dealer worksheet that shows the price, any dealer installed accessories/document charges, tax and registration and the FINAL out of the door cost. agree on all these items, total price and financing plan and only then even go to the dealership
if you go to the dealership and then negotiate on price/financing you lose.
its possible that dealers can sometime offer 0% interest rate but note that you wont usually get a big discount off MSRP then. so take that into account
but the key is to do everything over email and make sure that they reveal all the details and finalize them before you even enter a dealership
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3896808&forum_id=2#35431820) |
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Date: February 18th, 2018 3:25 PM Author: Comical rebellious nowag blood rage
if you pay more than 3% (assuming 60 months loan) then you are getting fucked
right now my credit union is offering 2.49% for 48 months loan and 2.89% for upto 60 months
yours should be somewhere around there: 2~3%
dont even consider any financing that charges more than 3% with your 800+ score. you are getting scammed and the dealer/bank is making a killing by passing off your loan to underwriters for thousands of dollars of commission
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3896808&forum_id=2#35431844)
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Date: February 18th, 2018 4:40 PM Author: Poppy box office depressive
was facing similar decision, went with 2016 RDX CPO (very high miles, but still several years of warranty). Paid about 24k.
cr-v has more random tech, but wasn't too concerned about that. I think RDX got update in 2017.
Acura has better components, better performance, thought the interior was nice and a little more spacious and refined. Acura service department is much better.
Lot of people told me that Acura or Lexus will take care of you better over the long run than honda/toyota.
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3896808&forum_id=2#35432289) |
Date: February 18th, 2018 5:27 PM Author: Ultramarine coiffed space useless brakes
Get your financing and then just have absolute final price incl all fees etc. in your head and be ready to walk away. I did this to try to cop a gently used 17 CRV from the dealership and they will dance all around to try to get you to come up on price. If you are not desperate for a car and have a working car to use, you do not actually need a new car. Dont budge on your price.
Truecar is a good estimate but is just a scam for dealerships to uniformly jack up prices. Use it as a guidepost and look at local listings and come in below that. Make them show you their cost for the car...not "invoice" either because that shit is all fake and the manufacturer just builds in fake invoice prices to allow dealerships to pad sales.
Fuck with the poor salesman and tell him you just wont buy a car if you dont get your price. Make him take degradingly low offers back to the sales manager. Tell him shit like "well if it's not worth your time then dont take it back, I have to go to X dealership across town still this afternoon."
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3896808&forum_id=2#35432537) |
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Date: February 18th, 2018 5:31 PM Author: mauve hunting ground
Definitely plan to line up financing first
The internet recommends emailing/calling each dealership and asking for the "internet manager" and asking that person for a quote, then use the lowest quote as leverage with all of the others, trying to get them to beat price etc.
There is nothing wrong with our Camry so we have flexibility to walk away. Our timeline to buy is "sometime this year"
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3896808&forum_id=2#35432552) |
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Date: February 18th, 2018 11:32 PM Author: Submissive cuckoldry turdskin
As a Subaru CVT owner, I feel like you have it almost completely backwards.
They do feel a little bit 'different', although I really disagree that it feels 'bad'. Like, if I'm on the interstate with the cruise pegged at 75, and I come up on a steep hill (the kind of hill where semis throw on their hazards because they can't do any more than like 50 or whatever), it's almost crazy to me how little drama the car exhibits in holding that speed. The engine and transmission will bear down a bit and the revs will go up to 2500 or maybe 2600, but that's it. It's just remarkable to me. My car is supposed to be one of the most underpowered cars out there, but it never really feels like it's getting its' ass kicked.
I know auto journalists tend to shit on CVTs because of the 'feel' of them but quite frankly I think all those impressions are misguided. Or at least perhaps the Nissan ones are worse than the Subaru ones.
And as for your assertion that "CVTs today are as reliable as any torque converter automatic"... I mean, you might be sort of correct in saying that... the problem with CVTs though is that they are so complicated that *nobody* repairs them in situ. Instead, if you have a problem with your CVT, your only option is to do a complete replacement with a new/used/remanufactured unit. And the problem with that is (at least with Subarus) the cost of all those options are hideously expensive. We're talking like $7-10k.
Luckily for owners such as myself, Subaru has extended the warranty on basically all the CVTs they made from 2010-2015 to 10 years / 100k miles, so I do have some peace of mind for another few years.
Normal automatic transmissions can be repaired much more inexpensively. And even if replacement were required on a normal automatic tranny, the cost wouldn't be quite as nuts as the CVTs are
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3896808&forum_id=2#35434492) |
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Date: February 18th, 2018 11:52 PM Author: Submissive cuckoldry turdskin
I don't know. All I know is that the decision to extend that warranty came out this past summer, and applied to 2010 to 2015. Mine is a 2011.
I see some high-mileage 2015s on Autotrader for like $18k and I just feel really bad for the people that think that's a good deal... they would be way better off with a low mileage 2010-2012 for sub $15k
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3896808&forum_id=2#35434615)
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Date: February 19th, 2018 12:09 AM Author: Submissive cuckoldry turdskin
I wish I had better data.
The whole situation seems a bit odd. Like, there really doesn't seem to be very many people complaining on the forums about their transmissions going out.
It almost seems to me as though Subaru would have been better off doing a production run of trannys & priced them so that they'd be affordable for replacement vs. doing this extended warranty thing
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3896808&forum_id=2#35434745) |
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Date: February 18th, 2018 11:36 PM Author: pea-brained pit
We went to Woodstock, NY last year and absolutely loved it.
Also, dealing with tents, carrying equipment as you hike, etc. just sucks. You can car camp, but having a nice shower and wifi is still preferable.
If you were a REAL Jew you wouldn't leave urban areas unless you absolutely had to.
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3896808&forum_id=2#35434510) |
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Date: February 18th, 2018 11:55 PM Author: mauve hunting ground
100% not flame. a car is just a tool to get from Point A to Point B.
Our use case for this car:
(1) My wife will use it to commute to work in heavy traffic on weekdays
(2) We will use it to visit my in-laws on weekends and for errands like getting the groceries
(3) It must fit our soon-to-be-born baby and carseat comfortably in the back, and a second carseat if needed (we hope to have 2 kids)
(4) Occasionally we may take it on roadtrip vacations, but often we rent a car for these to avoid running up the miles
that's it. no need for it to go really fast or be used for recreational driving.
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3896808&forum_id=2#35434645) |
Date: February 18th, 2018 10:34 PM Author: Submissive cuckoldry turdskin
I love my Outback but I'm increasingly wary of the CVTs they use, to the point that I'm not sure I'd recommend one to people who want to own one with the intention of driving one into the ground. IMO if you're going to own one it's probably best to get out of it before 100k miles, sadly.
Luckily for me I've put light mileage on mine so far
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3896808&forum_id=2#35434211) |
Date: February 18th, 2018 11:33 PM Author: mauve hunting ground
This is now the biggest thread of the day on XO
<3
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3896808&forum_id=2#35434498) |
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Date: February 19th, 2018 3:17 PM Author: mauve hunting ground
(1) Research cars online. Pick 2-3 models you think you are interested in buying.
(2) Go to the closest dealership, test drive the models you want. Tell salespeople you're not ready to buy. Decide which model you are buying.
(3) Get preapproved for a car loan at a bank, credit union, or captive finance company.
(4) Email or call all the dealers in your area to get their price on that model. Take the lowest bid you get and share it with the others, telling them to beat it. Go to the dealer that offered lowest price and buy car there.
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3896808&forum_id=2#35438159) |
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Date: February 20th, 2018 8:34 AM Author: Cream juggernaut azn
I played the game for a little bit - some were like "we can't give you a price, but we'll match, etc., etc.," others were begging me to come in, calling me on the phone, etc.
I did find one who was willing to talk over email and I mostly just worked with him. I tried to use his offer as leverage over others, but it was taking forever since dealers know what's going on and they don't see you as a high priority. In the end I really needed a new car and the trim I was going for (V6 Accord) was being discontinued, so I couldn't wait around forever. I realized the deal I was being offered was good enough after a few back and forths with the cooperative dealer and took it. I probably could've squeezed another few hundred out if I really wanted to. If you're negotiating with a TrueCar dealer, you can use that as a starting off price - find out what it would be on TC, then ask them to come in lower. If they do, you know you're already getting a decent deal.
I live in a very high volume area though. In other areas dealers will be much more receptive to any potential buyer.
I think your overall plan is pretty good actually.
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3896808&forum_id=2#35443588) |
Date: February 19th, 2018 3:38 PM Author: wonderful garrison organic girlfriend
This shit is toxic.
That said, you should definitely get the one with CarPlay (the one with the bigger/better screen). I don’t think the lowest end crv has it.
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=3896808&forum_id=2#35438307) |
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